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Welcome To Star's Hollow Coffee
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Before
1865, getting your hands on a decent cup of coffee was basically a
do-it-yourself process. Woodstoves and open fires were how your beans
got roasted, with varied and often horrific-tasting results. But shortly
after the end of the U.S. civil war, John and Charles Arbuckle created
a consistent, reliable product with their Arbuckles' Ariosa Coffee.
Thanks to this innovation, chuckwagon cooks and homesteading wives
could stock up on one-pound bags of pre-roasted beans that had been
coated with an egg and sugar glaze to help maintain freshness. It didn't
take long for the country to embrace the convenience of commercially
roasted and ground coffees, and the art of home-roasting began to fall
by the wayside.
Happily,
the art of home roasting has been revived by coffee enthusiasts, just
as home brewers and vintners have made the creation
of specialty beers and wines popular once again. But it may be that over
a century of drinking commercially prepared, dark-roasted coffee beans
has trained our tastebuds to expect that a bean needs to be roasted to
within an inch of its life to surrender its flavor. Are you ready to
teach your tastebuds some new tricks? Then meet H.T. Brown Coffee, where
coffee is roasted to what the bean requires, not what history dictates.
Two
home-roasting hobbyists have recently banded together to form H.T.
Brown Coffee. They
take a different approach to roasting their beans by only roasting
each type of coffee just enough to release the bean's full flavor. No more,
no less.
I recently
sampled two of their favorite beans - an Ethiopian Yirgacheffe, and
a Mexican Pluma. Here are my impressions of these two roasts. Ethiopian
Yirgacheffe
First,
a quick pronunciation lesson from Bob at H.T. Brown: "Yirg-a-cheff (like Jeff, hard ch)
-e (like e). The e on the end is important. Most
people think it's silent, but it's not. And the g is soft, not hard.
The accent is on the cheff."
My coffee
samples arrived in thick black, sealed and ziplocked plastic bags,
with a control valve on the side. I really love these bags because
they make using
and storing
the beans a breeze. I opened the bag of Yirgacheffe first as my curiousity
about these historic beans was overwhelming me. After all, these
are beans from the land
that invented coffee! Unlike most commercial beans, these
were lightly roasted, the color of a mild milk chocolate.
I coarsely ground the beans as I intended to use a French Press to
brew them. The resulting coffee was a bit weak, and I realized that
I needed to use about a heaping tablespoon more per pot than I
was used to using with other beans. The second brew was much
more
satisfying in intensity. I found the Yirgacheffe
held flavors reminiscent of chicory, and my cup carried an
overall light, sweet taste. This is a pure and flavorful coffee - but
not a strong coffee.
Apparently it is a taste that each individual must judge for themselves.
I took the Yirgacheffe to work and brewed a few pots for my co-workers
- they loved it, and appreciated the change from our standard can
of Folger's. However, back on the home front, my spouse just didn't
connect with the flavor of this particular bean. My advice?
If you like a light, slightly
chicory-fruity
taste, you're going to love H.T. Brown's Yirgacheffe. If you're not
sure that Yirgacheffe is your bean-du-jour, order a small amount, brew
it up, and keep an open mind. Your tastebuds
might just give
it a thumbs-up!
Mexican
Pluma
This
Pluma is an Oaxacan coffee, grown in southern Mexico. It's grown at an
altitute of about
4000
feet (1.2 km), which is happy-land for coffee beans.
Like the Yirgacheffe, it's a lightly roasted bean, but more evenly-shaped
and 'civilized' in appearance. I quite liked this bean, as evidenced
by my drinking two more cups than usual on my
Saturday
morning.
Again, the lighter roasting of these beans is something to be thoughtfully
savored. Take your time when sipping a cup of Pluma, and see how it
speaks to you. It's a pleasant, sweet bean that warrants a second cup,
and
then a third. We will not speak of the fourth cup, at least not aloud.
I will hold your total consumption secret if you will hold mine.
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