A Coffee Review:
H.T. Brown's Ethiopian Yirgacheffe
and Mexican Pluma

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Before 1865, getting your hands on a decent cup of coffee was basically a do-it-yourself process. Woodstoves and open fires were how your beans got roasted, with varied and often horrific-tasting results. But shortly after the end of the U.S. civil war, John and Charles Arbuckle created a consistent, reliable product with their Arbuckles' Ariosa Coffee. Thanks to this innovation, chuckwagon cooks and homesteading wives could stock up on one-pound bags of pre-roasted beans that had been coated with an egg and sugar glaze to help maintain freshness. It didn't take long for the country to embrace the convenience of commercially roasted and ground coffees, and the art of home-roasting began to fall by the wayside.

Happily, the art of home roasting has been revived by coffee enthusiasts, just as home brewers and vintners have made the creation of specialty beers and wines popular once again. But it may be that over a century of drinking commercially prepared, dark-roasted coffee beans has trained our tastebuds to expect that a bean needs to be roasted to within an inch of its life to surrender its flavor. Are you ready to teach your tastebuds some new tricks? Then meet H.T. Brown Coffee, where coffee is roasted to what the bean requires, not what history dictates.

Two home-roasting hobbyists have recently banded together to form H.T. Brown Coffee. They take a different approach to roasting their beans by only roasting each type of coffee just enough to release the bean's full flavor. No more, no less.

I recently sampled two of their favorite beans - an Ethiopian Yirgacheffe, and a Mexican Pluma. Here are my impressions of these two roasts.

Ethiopian Yirgacheffe
First, a quick pronunciation lesson from Bob at H.T. Brown: "Yirg-a-cheff (like Jeff, hard ch) -e (like e). The e on the end is important. Most people think it's silent, but it's not. And the g is soft, not hard. The accent is on the cheff."

My coffee samples arrived in thick black, sealed and ziplocked plastic bags, with a control valve on the side. I really love these bags because they make using and storing the beans a breeze. I opened the bag of Yirgacheffe first as my curiousity about these historic beans was overwhelming me. After all, these are beans from the land that invented coffee! Unlike most commercial beans, these were lightly roasted, the color of a mild milk chocolate.

I coarsely ground the beans as I intended to use a French Press to brew them. The resulting coffee was a bit weak, and I realized that I needed to use about a heaping tablespoon more per pot than I was used to using with other beans. The second brew was much more satisfying in intensity. I found the Yirgacheffe held flavors reminiscent of chicory, and my cup carried an overall light, sweet taste. This is a pure and flavorful coffee - but not a strong coffee.

Apparently it is a taste that each individual must judge for themselves. I took the Yirgacheffe to work and brewed a few pots for my co-workers - they loved it, and appreciated the change from our standard can of Folger's. However, back on the home front, my spouse just didn't connect with the flavor of this particular bean. My advice? If you like a light, slightly chicory-fruity taste, you're going to love H.T. Brown's Yirgacheffe. If you're not sure that Yirgacheffe is your bean-du-jour, order a small amount, brew it up, and keep an open mind. Your tastebuds might just give it a thumbs-up!

Mexican Pluma
This Pluma is an Oaxacan coffee, grown in southern Mexico. It's grown at an altitute of about 4000 feet (1.2 km), which is happy-land for coffee beans.

Like the Yirgacheffe, it's a lightly roasted bean, but more evenly-shaped and 'civilized' in appearance. I quite liked this bean, as evidenced by my drinking two more cups than usual on my Saturday morning. Again, the lighter roasting of these beans is something to be thoughtfully savored. Take your time when sipping a cup of Pluma, and see how it speaks to you. It's a pleasant, sweet bean that warrants a second cup, and then a third. We will not speak of the fourth cup, at least not aloud. I will hold your total consumption secret if you will hold mine.

 

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